| Announcement: The Japanese Shamo - By Willem van Ballekom |
| Posted: gamefowloftheworld @ Sat Jan 14, pm114 8: 50 pm |
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| Announcement: Gamefowl in Thailand : Laos and Cambodia |
| Posted: gamefowloftheworld @ Sat Jan 14, pm114 8: 32 pm |
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| Announcement: Marketing Deviance : The Selling of Cockfighting |
| Posted: gamefowloftheworld @ Sun Jan 08, am108 10: 05 am |
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| Announcement: How to Create a Gamefowl Strain By Amy Reynolds |
| Posted: gamefowloftheworld @ Sat Dec 24, pm1224 2: 44 pm |
Gamefowl are often raised for their hardiness, broodiness and beauty. Cockfighting is illegal almost everywhere, but the traits of the gamefowl are valuable for many reasons other than cockfighting. Keep a pair, trio or more, free ranging on your property and you will find they exhibit hardiness, ability to raise their own young, forage for themselves and let you enjoy a distinctive beauty amongst the fowl available to create your own gamefowl strain.
1
Purchase the best quality stock of gamefowl possible. Quality, rather than quantity, gives a better foundation to create your gamefowl strain from. One cock and one or more hens are necessary to begin your strain.
2
Raise chicks from the originating cock and hens. Choose the desired traits you want to create in a strain of gamefowl. Be prepared to cull chicks not displaying the desired traits. Keep those with the desired traits for future breeding.
3
Breed those with specific desired traits to others with the same traits. Keep repeating, culling those not showing traits wanted in the strain you are creating. Keep all males separate when the stags, young males, begin to mature into cocks -- adult males. They will fight until death, as it is their natural behavior.
4
House the gamefowl individually if specific breeding is to take place or small groups made up of one cock to one or more hens. Place together for breeding when wanting to lock in genes. Study the basics of line breeding, in-breeding, out-crossing and hybrid vigor. Create your gamefowl strain with vigor, hardiness and a pleasant appearance to end with your overall desired strain.
5
Continue to create your strain through selective breeding and culling. Add other brood stock as necessary. Concentrating on one strain for your first endeavor is likely to produce better results, two strains at the most. You do not need a large farm but attention to desired traits and correct breeding choices defines your strain.
Read more: How to Create a Gamefowl Strain | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_7770904_create-gamefowl-strain.html#ixzz1hUFdrGQn
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| Announcement: How to select the best fighting cock |
| Posted: gamefowloftheworld @ Thu Dec 08, pm1208 4: 59 pm |
How to select the best fighting cock
Things You’ll Need:
A clear eye
good sense of perception
gentle and caring hands
Step1
The Head. There are only 2 types of heads a cock possess. The small head which carries a pea-comb and the large headed straight comb cock. Most cockers and breeders prefer small heads for aesthetic purposes. It's up to you to choose according to your preference.
Step2
The Eyes. Any color of the eyes will do as long as it's clear, alert and bright, well-proportioned, and well-focused. Most cockers and breeders prefer red eyes since it connotes American blood in them.
Step3
The Beak. Big thick beaks show that the cock can execute firm billholds, long thin beaks are signs of speed and agility, and hooked beaks are good for billholding too. Whatever the type of beak you prefer, it should close and set well, and the upper and lower beaks should fit in tightly.
Step4
The Face. The skin on the face of the cock should have a smooth red face. Rough faced cocks are either old and/or bred haphazardly.
Step5
The Neck. The neck should be well-proportioned with the body. Feathers around the neck must be full, shiny and smooth.
Step6
The Shoulders. Should be broad, muscular, and a bit wider in relation to the back and the rest of the body.
Step7
The Breast. Must be full of flesh and rounded barely noticing the bone feeling the meat and not the fat.
Step8
The Back. The broader the back, the more power it packs.
Step9
The Tail. The tail base should be thick but pliable. Generally, broad tail feathers connotes imported blood, while narrow feathers shows Oriental and/or native infusion.
Step10
The Wings. Long wings mean more shuffling is expected while short wings are meant for clipping in midair.
Step11
The Thighs. Must be longer than the shanks and must be full of supple muscles to create more power while hitting.
Step12
The Shanks. Scaly parts of the feet (aka "Adidas") Big stubby shanks pack more power but a clear sign of slow-footedness, thin shanks are a clear indication of speed and agility.
Step13
The Toes. Smooth and small is always the desirable sign of speed
http://www.freewebs.com/tiger501a/miscellenious.htm
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| Announcement: Maintaining a Family of Gamefowl |
| Posted: gamefowloftheworld @ Thu Dec 08, pm1208 4: 56 pm |
Maintaining a Family of Gamefowl
Several months ago a good friend asked us to write an article that would map out a method on how to maintain a family of gamefowl. At the time, we did not give the matter much thought simply because we did not consider ourselves qualified to be writing about the subject.
Not that we claim to be experts on the subject now, but after maintaining a couple of strains of gamefowl at a high level of competitiveness since 1985, there are a few thoughts we can share with you that may help you in your breeding efforts. We will list as they come to mind, in no particular order of importance.
SINGLEMATE – You must know exactly who the parents are on both sides. Most great families owe their greatness to a few outstanding individuals and it is your never ending job to find them in your fowl. The only way we know to do this is by singlemating.
KEEP ACCURATE RECORDS – Of your matings and the offspring they produce as well as the performance of the offspring from each of these matings. This is the tool you will use to evaluate each singlemating and decide whether to continue it or not. Without good records, you cannot make sound breeding decisions. A NOTE OF CAUTION: If you track your fowl using a computer program, be sure and keep that information backed up on a disk everytime you update it, because if your computer crashes (which they all do now and then) that information may be permanently unavailable.
BE EXTREMELY SELECTIVE IN YOUR MATINGS – Very picky if you will, of both parents. They must be perfect in every way and HEALTY. Spend as much time as you need to deciding which individuals to mate. Study them carefully and make sure they will further your breeding goals. Follow your gut instinct and the facts rather than getting hung up on breed names, feather and leg colors, etc, as in the end all that matters is the PERFORMANCE of their offspring.
ONLY HAVE ONE OR TWO FAMILIES – Unless you have an unlimited amount of money, time and space, you need to concentrate your efforts on one or two families of fowl at the most. That is why you must find the ones that suit you the best and build from there. It’s a lot of fun to have different types of gamefowl, and we all have been there at some time in our lives. But if you are serious about your breeding program, you cannot afford to take this route. Each time you acquire new fowl, you will be taking away time, space, etc, from the ones you started out with and want to perpetuate.
PROVE EACH MATING – You will have to use other hens or an incubator to hatch the eggs from your singlemated pens in order to raise a good number of chicks from them. The more stags you can raise from a pair, the better you will be able to evaluate the production of that pair. Again, good record keeping is a must. Before deciding to breed any offspring from any of these matings, make sure the production of the pair lives up to your scrutiny and expectations. Work base on the results you achieve. It should take you on the average close to 2 years to prove the results of a pair, unless they are an early maturing strain.
DO NOT MAKE NEW MATINGS EACH YEAR – If you find a top producing pair, keep them together as long as you can before branching out and breeding to other individuals. A good pair should produce for 5 or more years depending on how old they were at the time you started with them. Remember that each new mating you put together will have to be put to the same scrutiny and that you will need additional space and pens to care for their offspring. So plan the number of matings carefully based on all the resource you have and the goals you hope to achieve.
DO NOT SKIMP ON FEED AND CARE – This one are will defeat you before you ever get stated. Good feed and care are what produces healthy fowl, and health is what you need for the longevity of a family of fowl. If you can turn your hens out to free range after the breeding season, you can keep them looking, feeling and acting like pullets for many years. We’ve had 10 year old hens that did not show their age and produced like pullets because they were turned out to free range at the conclusion of each breeding season. Sure you will probably lose some, but you will lose them quicker if you keep them penned up all their lives.
KEEP A SAFE NUMBER REPLACEMENTS - With gamefowl, disaster seems to always be lurking just around the corner. For this reason, once you locate your top producing pairs, it is a good idea to keep at least a couple of females and male from each of them even though you may not breed these offspring for couple of years or so. What you can do is replace these with subsequent years offspring from these pairs so you can have some fairly young individuals to use and carry on their bloodline. The blood of many good producing individuals is never carried on simply because their owners failed to plan and did not keep any of their offspring (because they were not going to breed them at the time), then they lose the hen or cock for one reason or another and that is far as they are able to go with that pair.
FIND THE BREEDING METHOD THAT WORKS FOR YOU – As most of you know, there is inbreeding, linebreeding, infusing, crossbreeding, and on and on. Which of these should you use is something you will have to find out for yourself based on the goals you have set in your breeding program., and your ability to make the right selections. Again, this is where good record keeping will prove to be a valuable tool in deciding which individual fowls blood should be used to carry on and improve the performance of the family.
We hope you are not too disappointed in finding out that we had no charts or graphs in this article showing you how the matings are to be carried out to produce super gamefowl for a lifetime. The reason for that is there is no such thing. It is all a matter of having good fowl to start with, keeping them healthy, singlemating, keeping extremely good production and performance records, and having the ability to analyze and interpret those records to decide your matings and the breeding methods you will use.
http://ultimatefowl.com/wiki/index.php?title=Maintaing_a_Family_of_Gamefowl
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| Announcement: Concepts to Better Breeding |
| Posted: gamefowloftheworld @ Thu Dec 08, pm1208 4: 51 pm |
Gamefowl breeding is a tedious and lengthy undertaking that requires full time attention. If you don't have the heart for it, don't do it. The good thing about gamefowl breeding as a business though is that, locally nowadays, there exist a big and lucrative market for fighting cocks. Many beginners get their initiation into cockfighting and gamefowl breeding usually through family or friends.
When asked what they like most about breeding, majority of rooster-raisers would say it's the joy of coming out with a winner by their own design. Acquire as much information as you can about gamefowl breeding before even buying a single rooster.
Start by visiting some experienced cockers and observing methods of raising gamefowl. You can also learn so much from readily available reading materials and videos on the subject. If you're an internet user, a number of good websites about cockfighting can provide some of the information that you need and you can also meet cockers and friends from all parts of the world who could be more than willing to share their knowledge and experiences.
Start within your budget and with the right planning.
Plan your breeding within the limits of your time and budget. As time goes on, you can keep your numbers down through selective breeding and hatching. And you must be willing to cull any defective or inferior birds. Huge farm is not a must to raise quality gamefowls. Quality is more important than quantity. Prepare your yard and have some housing ready for them.
Start with the right broodstocks.
It is said that "the end justify the means", but, although this may be true at some extent, in gamefowl breeding the end result comes a little bit longer than others that you can not just try any means for a shooting-an-arrow-in-the-dark end. Veteran rooster-raisers always say that gamefowl breeding becomes very expensive and wasteful when you start with cheap brood stocks. That is cheap in every sense of the word.
The first rule is to make sure that what you are breeding is the right stuff or close to it. In choosing a good brood stock, one must take into consideration the following steps:
a) Scout for winning bloodlines of breeders who have established names in the field or breeders who are on a winning streak;
b) Choose which bloodline do you intend to produce;
c) If possible, find out the family tree of your preferred bloodline;
d) Try to seek the best source of the brood stocks that you need;
e) When you have identified the best source try to get from him the best that he got, even if you have to pay more;
One thing in common among those who became successful in gamefowl breeding is the fact that they all placed considerable investment on their brood stocks.
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Partners Peter Uy & Joseph Choa never leave any stone unturned when they are buying seed fowls in the United States. Tukaan producer-host Emoy Gorgonia revealed that if Peter & Joseph are offered a broodcock priced at $1,500, they would simply offer back $2,000 for a better one or an ever higher amount for a rooster that is supposedly not for sale. They look not for the physical features, but for a rooster's potential to produce winners. Today, the partner's farm in Antipolo City is one of most preferred source of brood stocks locally.
A good example of someone who started it right, although, he admits that he had to spend more than a million peso as "tuition fee" before he learned his lessons is Sonny Lagon. With only four years of serious breeding behind him, Lagon has earned his place among the country's finest game fowl breeders. When he found out the right source of the brood stocks that he needed, Bruce Barnette of Alabama, Sonny immediately made his move. During one of his early visits to Barnette's farm, Lagon wanted to buy a particular rooster, but, was told that it was not for sale. When Sonny insisted, Barnette jokingly told him that he would only let go of the rooster for $5,000. Right there and then, Sonny handed Bruce $5,000. The rooster may not be worth that much, however, Sonny was able to earn Barnette's attention, trust and later on, friendship.
There are those who had been in the breeding business for years, but never got off the ground. Why? Because they started with the wrong or untested brood stocks. They probably got bargain seed fowls in the beginning, but ended up spending more and losing their investments in the long run. And in game fowl breeding or in any endeavor, something that is started wrong can never be made right.
Important things that you should know
a) Strain – a strain is a family of gamebirds that have the same physical characteristics and easily recognizable traits that make them different from the others and they must also have the ability to reproduce themselves to be considered a strain. Basically, all gamefowl breeds are man made designs that first stem from the Wild Red Jungle Fowl of Southeast Asia (the local labuyo perhaps). Through selective breeding, we now have the birds we see today. Creating a strain is the result of one man's vision. It is developed through selective breeding, for many generations with a single family.
b) Single breeding – a cock bred with a single hen or rotating that cock with three or four hens that are individually penned.
c) Group breeding – is breeding a cock with a group of hens. It is similar to flock breeding except a smaller amount of hens are bred to only oen cock at a time.
Specialize in only one or two breeds at the most.
The first thing to consider when you aim to be a breeder of fine quality gamefowl is to specialize in one or two breeds at the most. This could be done through line breeding, inbreeding, out-crossing, semi-outcrossing and infusion.
a) Line Breeding – is the most common form of maintaining a strain. This is when a cock is bred to his mother, grand-mother or even his great-grandmother or if a pullet is bred to her father, grandfather or her great-grandfather. Breeding to their aunts, uncles or even to their cousins will also work.
b) Inbreeding – is the breeding of brother to sister. It is important when you need to accentuate or lock in the good genes or traits of your strain.
c) Out-crossing – is when you bring in new blood. The main purpose of out-crossing is to produce battlecocks. These are the ones that you're going to fight or sell.
d) Hybrid vigor –the main reason for out-crossing is to establish a high degree of Hybrid vigor. To breed an individual that is better, faster, stronger, smarter and gamer than his parents is the result of hybrid vigor.
Sex of a chick is not a cocks' fault.
A cock has thirty-nine pairs of chromosomes composed of one pair of sex chromosome and thirty-eight pairs of autonomic chromosomes, while, a hen has one sex chromosome instead of a pair. A cock gives a sex chromosome to every fertilized egg, but a hen gives her sex chromosome to maybe 50% of the fertilized eggs she lay. If the fertilized egg receives sex chromosomes from both the cock and the hen, it will hatch to be a stag (male), but if the egg only has a sex chromosome from the cock, it will hatch out to be a pullet (female).
Remember that as much as possible, always keep youth to one side of the breeding. Breed a proven hen, which is at least two years old, to a young brood cock and vice-versa.
With this information, I guess you can now start in gamefowl breeding. Of course, be sure to provide your birds with the best nutrition and health care available. A comprehensive vaccination program is a must considering that game birds are very susceptible to a wide range of avian pests and poultry diseases.
Lastly, keep track of each chick's ancestry by keeping good records, giving each brood cock or brood hen its own identification code and marking each of their chicks with the identity off the breeding that produced it. This can be done with toe punching and nose marking, then later with wing and legbands. Through, this you'll be able to identify which pair of breeding to continue with or to stop.
http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/poultry-and-gamefowl-concepts-to-better-breeding-304574.html
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| Announcement: breeding program |
| Posted: gamefowloftheworld @ Thu Dec 08, pm1208 4: 48 pm |
.I love many strains for their various characteristics and I do not like crossing strains with each other in an attempt to improve or preserve a line,it just does'nt make sense to me for instance, I like Hatch and Greys and their style, to infuse another strain into them to improve them is deleting the stamped traits that sets them apart from other strains...
...ALL gamefowl are from the same genepool,regardless if they be Clarets,Hatch or Doms,they ALL came from the same source..It took inbreeding and linebreeding to seperate them from other fowl in their genepool,I do not like inbreeding to the extremes,however I do like Linebreeding,inbreeding is breeding relatives together,if you breed a cock to his daughter? you have inbreed those fowl and have not established a stamp for your fowl and in most cases you have'nt improved their abilities either,inbreeding causes the good and the bad to show its ugly head and most times,its' the latter,inbreeding brings to the surface things like,genetic weaknesses,desiese that may have been hidden and in general gives "breed recession"(weak offspring)..
...Linebreeding is where an animal with ALL the traits that you desire in your stock is bred to multiple hens,then those offspring are blended together,if you use anything other than that one cock or one hen? you have not linebred as there will be more than one animal show up multiple times in one's pedigree..This is called "critical mass" and gives you uniformity in your offspring without weakening them or their traits..
...I breed unrelated Hatch to each other and also use one particular cock or hen in that family to breed to many Hatch that have the desired traits that I want.,then breed one side or the other back out,but do not do this by inbreeding father/daughter etc etc,why create a superior line of fowl then weaken it with inbreeding?...Some claim that this is the way to establish or maintain brood fowl,I say nothin is farther from the truth,Broodfowl in any breed of animal is an animal with superior traits above his perspective breed,Broodfowl that trace back to the same animal multiple times throught his/her pedigree are called Homozygous,meaning they've inherited their traits from the same animal and those traits ie genes come to them from the topside and the bottom side of their pedigree,those are the producers,they are homzygous in their genetic makeup,they have hybrid viogor and if we choose correctly they have everything we desire in a gamefowl family..
...Once I have my lines established,they will come uniform,in the breeder's circle,we call this "predictability" and "consistancy",,,a person could breed animals for a lifetime and never even scratch the surface of the true genetics in his gamefowl,that's what makes these fowl so great..
http://flatwoodsgamefarm.webs.com/mybreedingmethods.htm
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| Announcement: Interview with Duke Hulsey-G&S Nov 1994 |
| Posted: gamefowloftheworld @ Sat Dec 03, am1203 8: 03 am |
G&S Nov 1994
Interview with Duke Hulsey
Joe Mac: Mr. Hulsey, this is Joe Mac from Grit and Steel, how are you?
Duke: Pretty good. I know I have slowed up somehow. My wife and I are moving to Florida. Carlos Mendez is going to do the farm now. I'm going to help him with the brood pens and everything though.
Joe Mac: I guess you are like everybody else, you need to retire too?
Duke: Yes, everything is winding down now.
Joe Mac: First of all, I would like to tell you what an honor it is to talk to you and tell you how much I appreciate what all you have done for me and for the game rooster and I just want to let you know I really appreciate you.
Duke: Well, it has been fun to me, too.
Joe Mac: Mr Hulsey, when was the first time you saw a rooster fight, or how did you get started with it?
Duke: I got started with it while living in Fort Worth and a fellow across the alley from me was a chicken fighter and one day I saw some cars over there and I knew what they were doing. I went over there and right away they were going to run me away. I told them that if I was going to leave, I was going to call the police so I was a member right away then. So from then on, when he went to the fights, he took me with him.
Joe Mac: Well, who was this?
Duke: His name was Essie Green.
Joe Mac: How old were you at the time when you saw your fight rooster fight?
Duke: About 9 or 10 years old.
Joe Mac: Did you train with Mr. Green or who did you start training with?
Duke: The first person I went with was Joe Bolin in Fort Worth and from there I went with H. H. Moore.
Joe Mac: Which chicken did Mr. Moore have?
Duke: He had Clarets and odds and ends, not too much of anything, but he fought chickens a long tiime. I stayed there for about 8 weeks. He was really though. I went up to him at a fight, he had fought a main and lost it and I said the next time you are going to put a main, I'd like to come and help you. He said you would be like all the rest, you wouldn't be there a week until you would be telling me what to do. I told him no. I wouldn't be like that.
He let me know when to be there and I helped him for about 8 weeks. After this time , I wanted to leave and show somebody else what I have learned. He didn't like it but he gave me about 6 or 8 roosters and I loaded them in the Ford Roadster and I tooke those rooster back to Fort Worth and trained them and got them ready. I was working different shifts and Saturday was pay day and everybody would always gather up and go to fights. This one man wanted to fight one of his and I told him that I could whipped him easy. I did and ended up whipping about everthing he had. On his walk ropes and pens. I fought the second rooster and he got rattled and come back and beat him easy and he looked at me and said "you son of a bitch, you got trained roosters". I told him I didn't know what training was. So that Monday when I went to work, I had a pink slip in my box saying I was through. See, he was my boss. That was the best break I got. Then I went with Jack Walden for about a year and we made pretty good money.
Then I went to Madigan and asked if he would let me come and work for him. He said he would give me a call. Back then, you didn't give a call, it was always a letter. He wrote me this letter and when he started the letter, he would always give you some type of title. I went and fought with him for 3 years. When I quit , he walked me to the gate and told me I shouldn't quit him in the middle of the season. When he got real mad, his jaws would start poping, and his teeth would pop. So, we went to the backgate to go through and he says "Duke" you are the best man I have ever seen when you go up stairs ( that was where his cockhouse was) but when you come down, you are the sorriest one I have ever seen". He was wanting me to do carpenter work and other things and I wouldn't do it.
Joe Mac: You were there to train roosters.
Duke: Yes, I am a rooster trainer. I wasn't going to fool with anything else.
Joe Mac: Why dsd he have his cockhouse upstairs?
Duke: His garage was downstairs. He had a big two car garage. Then, he had stairs on the side and you'ld go up there and that was the cockhouse. I would put up as many as 60 roosters up there.
Joe Mac: I guess he just had stalls for them up there?
Duke: Yes, the coops were all made up there and he would come up there all the time and he would watch us work. One day he was up there and he says that boy that is helping you, can he count? I told him yes. He said he was supposed to give that cock 60 runs and he only gave him 58. I said get out of here and leave me alone That was the first time I had ever said cuss words like that in front of him and he had never cussed in his life I don't believe. Well, he went down those stairs and I heard him say "Damn", then he took about 2 more steps and said "Damn". Well, he never came back up those steps again and he left me alone.
Joe Mac: What type of person was he? Was he a pretty nice fellow or not?
Duke: Real nice. He was a small fellow, but had a world of money. If he told you something, it would be just that way, but if he didn't, he wasn't going to give an inch. I was there about 3 years and I didn't get a rooster or a pullet, not even a feather and he never told me he would let me have one either. He would always say, you want one of those right outs over there and I knew they were dunghills. He would always say you can have one of those over there.
Joe Mac: Well, you mentioned Sweater, how did you meet him?
Duke: We had known each other since we were boys. He was fighting a stag main in Oklahoma and he was fighting Henry Wortham and I ran around with Henry all the time. Henry whipped him the main, but me and Sweater got to be big buddies there and we were always real close. Every week, I would go to Dallas to see his chickens and see him fool with those chickens. It was 30 miles from Fort Worth and I would ride a bicycle over there. I would stay all day and then ride back that afternoon.
Joe Mac: What type of fellow was Henry Wortham?
Duke: He was the greatest man that ever lived. There couldn't be a better man. Right at the last of it, in St. Augustine, he had that fight and I won it and he just had tears in his eyes and he said my boy has done it again. If you didn't think that made me feel good!
Then when he was in the Memphis hospital and on his way out, me and my wife went to see him and they let us take him home with us. Everyday he would watch me work the roosters and finally after about a month, he didn't have an appetite and you couldn't get him to eat. My wife, Deanna would tell him, if he didn't eat he couldn't go out and watch me work the roosters. He'd go ahead and eat. He was the greatest chicken fighter that ever was.
Joe Mac: Did you ever train with him?
Duke: No, I didn't.
Joe Mac: Curtis said he was the greatest rooster man that ever lived so he mus thave been something else.
Duke: Yes, he was something . There is no way to describe how good he was. He was a good judge of a fighting rooster and knew exactly what the rooster would do and didn't work a rooster hardly any.
Joe Mac: Lane Arrington told me the same thing.
Duke: No. He didn't work them at all. He would get them out of the stall and take them to the work bench and take them by the legs and fly over there, rub them down a little bit, fly them 5-6 times and put them back.
Joe Mac: Did he ever run one?
Duke: No, he didn't fool with that. It was really fun to know him and to get to be that close to him.
Joe Mac: Who do you think helped you the most in training cocks for battle.
Duke: I would say Madigin. He made sure that I was in that cockhouse every morning at 5:00. Everything had to be exactly right on the money, it couldn't be 5-10 minutes late. If you were suppose to go up and scratch all of them at noon, that didn't mean 12:30, it meant noon and you'd better be there to throw them out.
Joe Mac: He was a man that was on time, huh?
Duke: Yes, everything had to be precise. As far as training the rooster, he never trained one and actually didn't know that much about it, but he knew the other part good. He would always tease me about great chicken men up North and I would say let them come down here and get some of these and they will find out how good it is. He would agitate me all the time.
Joe Mac: I know you fought all over the world, but which place do you think was the toughest place to fight?
Duke: Well when I went to the Philippines it was the easiest. They didn't know anything about feeding a chicken or anything, but by the time I left there (I was there 17 years) they had gotten smart and it was hard to whip them.
Joe Mac: When you first went there, you didn't hardly lose a fight did you?
Duke: No, I didn't. The deal was that when I first went there, I would get $100.00 per fight for every one that I won and of course he bought all the chickens. Jorge Araneta was the man that I was with and he was fighting them for $5,000-$10,000 each. At the time, we matched mains over there and would fight anybody and everybody in the Philippines if they would bet $10,000 on the roosters. You can believe that they come with the cream of the crops too!
Joe Mac: You got them ready to fight and I guess he had somebody else to tie the knfe?
Duke: Yes, I couldn't do any of that. I did later but to start with for the longest time I didn't do any of that.
Mrs. Hulsey: Joe Mac, Duke had to train just chickens to meet whoever wanted to fight him at their weight in the Philippines.
Joe Mac: We were talking about fighting $10,000 a rooster but that's not counting what the main would fight for is it?
Duke: No. Well, actually everybody is there and I was fighting all of them for the main. Whenever I won enough to win the main, say we were fighting 15, and I won 8 then I won the main.
When it came time to fight the BIG mains, I would always be the winner. So they wound up getting Joe Goode over there and Speck McGloclin.
Jorge Araneta called me and said Duke if there is enough good rooster in the United States, I want you to bring them over here and fight them and I don't want anyone to know you are here. I picked up every rooster I could find that was an ACE cock. I flew them in there and wasn't going to let nobody know I was there. When the main was fought, we had the radios and TV hooked up for me to see it The first fight was fighting Joe and he walked over to Jorge and said where is Duke? He said, "Well he must be home". He said "there isn't any way he his at home. He is here somewhere because nobody in the world has chickens like that except for him". So of course I went ahead and whipped him pretty bad. Joe was a tough chickenman. He was as good a chicken man on earth. The only mark against him was that he brought that poison to this country and it really hurt cockfighting.
Joe Mac: Yes, that was a bad part of the sport.
Duke: He just actually ruined the sport by doing that.
Joe Mac: Which Derby or Main was your most memorable?
Duke: The best one was when I fought the 3 mains I told you about awhile ago. I fought Henry Wortham first, then Bobby Manziel, then I fought Judge Wilkins.
Joe Mac: Did you win all 3 of them?
Duke: No, I didn't whip Henry. Me and Madigin got into a real bad argument that morning and I always pick the roosters to fight. He would always say well that little grey one would be good and he might not be worth a damn and he would always put that on me, but anyway, we had to hauled a lot of roosters over there to that main. My wife and boys even hauled a bunch of them. When you get ready to go in, he tells me that I am going to have to pay for your wife and boys to get in. I exploded and I wouldn't fight for him. After a while, Sam Bigham and Henry Wortham kept talking to me and told me to go out there and get this over with and lets go ahead and fight. We did, but when we fought, the first thing he did, he says how about that little grey and I knew the little grey couldn't whoop nobody. Well, I said yeah, that's fine so I went ahead and heeled him up and got him whipped. So, the next one I heeled up something else he wanted to fight. By this time I have already lost 2 fights so I started picking them. We sent all the way to the deciding fight and I had a big grey rooster and Madigin got up on the side of the pit (there were lots of millionaires there) and said "I'll bet all the money anybody wants to bet on my rooster". Of course, nobody bet him. I had already tried to lay $100 to $80 myself on him. He got crowded up against the wall and Henry killed him. Then we fought Sweater a main and just demolished him. Then we fought Judge Wilkins, I think it was about a 13 cock main and we beat him in straight fights. His roosters' head were twice as big as they were when they went in there. Mine really worked on his.
Joe Mac: If there is one thing you could help a beginner with about training roosters, what would that be?
Duke: That's one thing I have done. The best thing I could tell them is what Madigin taught me and that is to be puntual about going into the cockhouse and taking care of the chickens.
Joe Mac: Do you think some people are working them too much?
Duke: Yes, sure I do. They are working them like I did back then. I worked hard. Now days, people don't work that hard. I gave a fellow a show of roosters last year to fight and when we got to the fight, his wife was changing the roosters and doing everything with them and he wasn't doing anything.
Joe Mac: Well, maybe he was going to pick them.
Duke: That cured me of that, I said I've had enough of this.
Joe Mac: What do you think about selecting brood fowl? I have had a lot of people call me and want me to tell them who to get them from and I tell them to go watch them fight.
Duke: I think they should watch them fight or get them from somebody that is responsible and does fight every week to know that he is good enough to keep fighting. You can't just go out and get chickens from anybody.
Joe Mac: In March of 1993, when I won at Sunset, the thing that helped me the most was something that I got out of your keep. I just wanted to tell you how much I appreciate that.
Duke: I was always glad we were as close as we were and I thought you were going to bring your boy down there but he never made it.
Joe Mac: I never could get him squared away. Now he is chasing these little girls around.
Duke: I can't knock that.
Joe Mac: How can they get your keep? Do you still sell it?
Duke: Yes.
Joe Mac: You sold your farm to Carlos Mendez, didn't you?
Duke: Yes, Carlos Mendez. That is who I sold the farm to. He is a real high class fellow.
Joe Mac: Are you going to help him with keeping the brood pens and everything?
Duke: Yes, I am going to help with the brood yards every year for a few years and talk to him enough to let him know which ones are the ones to breed. I have some In and In left noses thre that I sold for $1,000.00 a piece for a while but I had to quit selling them. I think there is 8 of them there. I told him that all 8 of them was going to be bred every year and all their sisters. The fellow that I told you about awhile ago who I sold a show of roosters and his wife trained them, well, we are still friends, but he came down and he wanted to buy some brood cocks from me, but I had already made a deal with Medndez that he would be tending to that. I told him I couldn't sell hime one and he would have to come deal with Carlos. Well, Carlos came down and I told him every rooster that was good and he goes around and says he wants 2 of the red cocks, 2 hatch cocks and he wanted a grey that I mooched off Dee Cox. I have give Dee chickens from time to time and we have always been good friends. This one grey rooster was a hell of a rooster, I saw him fight in January in a Main on the border, so I just thought he was the damnest rooster I had ever seen but I didn't say anything about it because he didn't get hurt. Later, Dewey came to me and he said Duke, this is the cock that you like so good down in south Texas and he is going to be the next rooster in here and I don't know what he is going to do because he has won 2 fights since then. I said, he will still be alright. Sure enough, he won again but he got hurt a little bit. When he got hurt any at all, I went to him and said Dee, I would like to have that rooster and he said, he's yours.
Joe Mac: Where was this, in Texoma or where?
Duke: It was at Sunset.
Joe Mac: Well, now that might have been when they won the 10 cock in March 1994.
Duke: I don't know. I just remember about that cock. I just know that rooster.
Joe Mac: Where can people get your keep?
Duke: Just call the place and ask Carlos to send it to them.
Joe Mac: It has been great talking to you. You have always been real special to me and I have heard about you ever since I knew what a rooster was.
Duke: Well, we will be back together in a year or two after I rest up.
Joe Mac: That sounds good. We'll get to go to Sunset or wherevery you can go. Maybe we can go out for dinner again, how about that?
Duke: Yeah, that will be real nice.
Joe Mac: You have a good day and take care Mr. Duke.
Duke: You too and thank you partner.
THE END.
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| Announcement: Interview with Mr. Andres Huron |
| Posted: gamefowloftheworld @ Fri Dec 02, pm1202 9: 50 pm |
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| Announcement: HOW TO START IT RIGHT IN BREEDING GAMEFOWL FOR NAKEED HEEL |
| Posted: gamefowloftheworld @ Sat Nov 26, pm1126 12: 22 pm |
HOW TO START IT RIGHT IN BREEDING GAMEFOWL FOR NAKEED HEEL
BREEDING OF GAMEFOWL FOR NAKED HEEL
Lets put it in mind that theres no such thing as pure blood game rooster, it is pure in the sense of what material we started. All bloodlines has a specific fighting traits, character and ability. Name of bloodlines are important for record basis only not to be mixed up in the future. The hardest thing in breeding is to start right, that is where the average breeder wastes the first 6 or 12 years of his career as breeder. By starting right you must not too aggressive (patience), not in a hurry to have as many fighting cock in just 1 or 2 years time. acquire good materials in a honest breeder that he gives all the best for the sake of professionalism. Good quality start in the bloodlines that will produce the standard of gamecock that is suitable for Philippine nakeed heel type of cockfighting. cut spurr, natural spur as weapon, so fighting style and ability are important. It must passed our like and standards.
WHAT ARE THE STANDARDS OF GAME ROOSTER FOR NAKED HEEL
1. ABILITY, STAMINA, INDURANCE
2. POWER AND SPEED
3. RIGHT STATION AND WEIGHT
4. BODY CONFORMATION AND BONE STRUCTURE
5. GAMENESS AND STYLE
The question is how can we have this kind of game-fowl?
We can attain this by right selection of our brood-stocks, we must know the background or history of our brood materials.
Breeding is a science of genetics which thru continues learning and by trial and error method are the basic way to produce game-birds.
So if you want to start right, start by a single mating. This is the the way of breeding, that trhough continues breeding, you can make your own family or strain of gamefowl.
start by good quality of strain, healthy broodstocks, good quality feeds, proper medication and vaccination program to produce healthy chick, to become an athletic fighter.
HOW THIS IS TO BE DONE?
Read all you can, get all the books published on gamefowl and study them well, some are better than the others, but you can learn a little something on each one. They are all products of expiereince cockers. Listen to all advises and ideas of old cockers, but get your education from your own expierince. expose yourself in fighting your gameroosters private match or derbies
Not all good breeders are rich, some are poor men who fight only in a small time events. Don't downgrade the small time breeders and cockers, becouse in this sport we are all brother.
BY BOB36
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| Announcement: by Don Blansett |
| Posted: gamefowloftheworld @ Sat Nov 26, am1126 7: 15 am |
Carbohydrate Loading Keep
Foreword
The sport of cockfighting has existed for hundreds of years, but like most sciences, more progress has been made in the past fifty than all those preceding years. The average cocks of today could defeat those cocks bred and fed in the 1920's. Why? For the same reasons human beings today are stronger, bigger and faster than their grandparents: breeding and feeding. Great strides have been made in genetics and nutrition in the past fifty, and particularly, the last twenty years. Consequently, average life expectancy, general health, and size have increased by leaps and bounds. In the animal world horses run faster, cows produce more milk and beef, hens lay more eggs, and so on.
Cockers of today are more knowledgeable and generally better educated, with more available information, than ever before. But, while most cockers are great students of experience, as a rule, they do little to actually study genetics and nutrition with an eye toward improving the ability and performance of their fowl. This conditioning method is an attempt to enable many cockers to "catch up" with the latest scientific developments in nutrition and training. The research, the studying, and the experimentation have been done for you. This keep can work for you.
I have read dozens of keeps, and while I have not seen one written in the last ten years that would actually be detrimental to your fowl, most have been fairly similar as to feed and work. You will find that this keep is different in its approach, than any you have ever used. To be successful, you must follow this keep closely, in quantity of feed and work, and in type of feed and timing.
This conditioning method is based on the latest studies concerning athletic competition, and what are cocks except athletes? The principle behind it is known as "carbohydrate loading". To understand fully how this keep works, you should know a little about nutrition and its effects. So you can understand the ideas involved, I will try to simplify them.
The amount of energy that a muscle will be able to produce depends on the amount of "glycogen" stored in that muscle. Glycogen is a chemical that serves as fuel for the muscle. The more glycogen present in the muscle, the longer that muscle will be able to act effectively. Studies have shown that if glycogen stores are depleted by exercise and a low carbohydrate diet, then replaced by rest and a high carbohydrate diet, the muscle can store twice as much glycogen, or energy, as it had originally. No one needs to tell you what this means in practical terms: your cock will hit harder, and more importantly, will be able to do it much longer than he would have otherwise. He will maintain that deadly punch for a greater period of time. I will explain about carbohydrates, proteins and fats in more detail when we get to the subject of feed.
Finally, let me say that this is the closest thing to a workingman's keep that you can find. It does not require 12 hours a day to be effective. The maximum time needed would be I to 2 hours in the morning and the same in the evening. The quantity of the time spent with your show of cocks is not as important as the quality of the time. Make sure that your time is well organized and efficient. This keep does require good cocks in good health cocks that are well bred and have been fed and cared for properly all their lives. There is no keep, and especially, no substance, that will make up for lack of care. So if you bought this keep because you have been lazy your cocks are in poor health from lack of care then you cannot expect this conditioning method, or any other, to do them any good.
Pre-Keep? What's That?
My feeling on this subject is that our cocks should be in a pre-keep all their lives well fed, but at approximate fighting weights, worm free and deloused. I hope you don't have cocks that are any other way. I have fought cocks off strings, out of fly pens and out of holding pens with no appreciable difference in performance when this keep is used for the last fourteen days. The important thing to remember is that fowl are like people, in that they become bored with the same surroundings. Whenever possible, rotate cocks on a regular basis from fly pens to holding pens to string walks. This will keep the cocks active and alert and prevent them from becoming coop-stale. Handle your cocks often, except in moulting season, to tame them and to determine their weights so that their feed rations can be adjusted accordingly.
I cannot overemphasize the fact that you should put up only those cocks that are gentle and well mannered. Life is too short to fool with manfighters besides, it is my belief that most manfighters are not truly game. However, don't confuse manfighters with nervous, high-strung fowl. Also, many otherwise gentle cocks will hit back if mishandled or when they are becoming sharp during the keep. Like boxers, cocks in training love to snap a few punches at an available target. In summary, just let me say that if a cock doesn't gentle down, doesn't stop hitting or pecking when picked up, after a week's gentle handling, don't consider him for a keep. Kill him, breed him (if you are a fool), but don't put him up to fight.
Since I am on the subject, I'll attempt to give you a good all around feed routine, as well as a worming and delousing schedule. Your daily feed for fowl on your yard should consist of approximately 55% carbohydrates, 15% protein, and 30% fat. Since most laying mash is 12% to 15% protein, you will need to supplement the protein, unless you use the 20 to 30% protein lay pellets offered by some feed stores. A good all-around feed, and one that is as cheap as possible without sacrificing quality, is one part scratch (which consists of cracked corn and wheat), one part 20% laying pellets and one part soaked oats. For those cockers in the less temperate areas, substitute whole corn for scratch in the winter. Sure, you can buy more expensive feeds, but for a good sound all-purpose feed, this mixture can't be beaten. As for supplementing protein, in moderation, you can use "trout chow", fish meal, or even some high protein dog food such as Gaines. But always remember use these in moderation. Because, after all, you are feeding chickens, and the closer you stay to a natural diet, the better off you will be. A lot of fancy feeds will just upset a fowl's digestion. The opinions on amounts and times of feeds would fill a book much larger than this. Adjust your feed in accordance with the weight of the cock. Whether you feed once or twice daily depends on so many variables, I wouldn't even begin to try to dictate to you climate, types of pens, breeds of fowl. Go with what works best for you. One hint though, if you have rather severe winters, make sure your cocks are fed as close to dark as possible, the more corn the better, if this is a second feed. It has been my experience that a cock with a full crop can stand those cold nights much better than one that is empty.
As for worming and delousing get on a regular schedule. If you have string walks, change the leg bands every Saturday or Sunday or whatever, just do it regularly. The same goes for worming and delousing. Fowl should be wormed and deloused every month. In fact, I often delouse and worm any time I have an occasion to catch one of my fowl running loose on the yard. Any number of good products are available for getting rid of lice. Several are advertised in your gamefowl journals and I have heard good comments about most all of them. Most farm and feed stores carry a brand of lice powder. I know some cockers who use Black Leaf 40 to delouse, often with a chemical dip, but I don't advise this. I know of one prominent cocker who completely submerged all his battle cocks in a delousing solution way over 100 of them. By the time he had finished the last one, he looked back, and the first ones were beginning to fall over. He lost every single treated cock that day, and although he is beginning to win again this year, it took him three years to regain his previous position. So I don't recommend dips, nor do I recommend Black Leaf 40 for the amateur.
The only worm medicine I can recommend is the Wormal product from Salsbury Laboratories. If you follow directions on the bottle, Piperzine liquid wormer is okay too, especially for young fowl. But remember, Piperzine only kills one type of worm, the roundworm, while Wormal will kill three types of worms, including the roundworm. Don't be misled by sensational claims in the gamefowl journals advertising a revolutionary new worm medicine. If a more effective worm medicine had been discovered, believe me, the commercial poultry men would be using it. They're using Wormal, and so am I. Some worms hatch on 10-day cycles, so to be safe, worm on Saturday, and then 10 days later. After that, follow your monthly schedule to control worms. Just remember that worms, like lice, can never be completely eliminated, just controlled.
Vitamins: Myth or Magic?
The truth about the effects of vitamins actually lies somewhere in between. I have had to rethink my position on vitamins recently. Three years ago, I, along with most scientists, doctors and nutritionists, felt that all the vitamins a person needed were contained in a well-balanced diet. 'Using vitamin and mineral supplements was just paying for expensive urine, the body's way of discarding unneeded vitamins. However, today most experts agree that extra vitamins can play an important role in any serious training program, as long as massive doses are not used. It is quite possible to die from overdoses of vitamins vitamin D, for example. Certain vitamins such as C and B-12 are water soluble, which means that the body does not absorb what it doesn't need, and one cannot receive an overdose from these vitamins. So, in conclusion, let me say that although vitamins and their effects are still not completely understood, it is clear that cocks under the physical strain of intensive conditioning can benefit from an extra vitamin and mineral supplement, such as we advise in this program.
Water, Water, Everywhere ...
Every keep I have ever read mentions drying cocks out before they fight by limiting their water intake. Some of the directions are moderate and some are radical. Cockers thirty or forty years ago often gave their cocks no water for the last two days! In to-, day's fast-paced competition, I know of no surer way to get them killed. Cocks need moisture in their bodies to convert glycogen to energy. Exactly how much water a cock needs is determined by so many factors it is impossible to predict with any certainty but I will say this, give your cocks all the water they will drink during the keep. Believe me, the cocks are better judges of what they need than we are. In fact, in extremely cold weather, you may want to encourage cocks to drink by giving them warm water or warm water mixed with powdered milk. Always keep water by your cocks during the keep, up until 24 hours or so before the fight, when you want to regulate every bit of their feed and water intake. Consider this fact: when a cock loses 2% of his body weight in water, his ability to perform begins to deteriorate. In other words, he is riot fighting up to his potential. Two percent of a 5 pound cock's weight is 1.6 ounces, a little over one and a half ounces. SO, if you bring a cock into a fight with all the moisture he needs in his tissues, he has a much better chance. And that, my friend, is the name of the game.
When pressed, most cockers will describe a cock on point" as a bundle of nerves, bobbing, clucking, moving a cocked gun. I define a cock on point as being a cock that is ready and at the peak of his health, strength and well-being. For years, I have corresponded with a prominent cocker who has continually pressed this idea on me: "Fight your cocks when they are ready, not when you are." This means taking cocks to the pit when they are at the peak of their mental and physical well-being.
"Pointing" is a natural thing. It is the end result of several contributing factors: the cock is empty, he has been rested force rested, and he is sexually and physically frustrated from inactivity. As a result of all these factors, his blood sugar level is way up, his energy is at its peak and he is not only ready, he's anxious for an outlet, he wants to fight. Often a cock "on point" is described as "corky" to describe a cock that is light and bobs like a cork on water. There is really no way to describe a cock on point but I guarantee you'll know it when you feel him. This is not something to be taught, it must be experienced.
Sparring
Sparring can be a valuable tool for the cocker if done properly. First, it is a tool for selection it allows the cocker to get some idea of how a cock will fight. Secondly, a cock can learn some things during the course of a session, good habits as well as bad. Thirdly, sparring can be a valuable outlet for a cock's pent-up energy, allowing him to vent his rage and delay his coming on point too early.
Some cockers use a catch cock and attempt to "teach" a cock to hit at a cock's tail even if he can't see his head. Also, some cockers tie a catch cock's legs to see if he will score on a down cock. I am doubtful if either of these practices does the slightest bit of good, because I think the aggressiveness of the cock is determined in the brood pen.
However, cocks, to a certain degree, can be taught to score quickly. This is the way. First, bill your cocks really well, flush them and set them down close together, close enough so they'll get at one another very fast. Let them have a good pitting, enough to make them really mad, but don't let them wallow and break feathers. After a 15 second rest, flush them and set them down about three feet apart. Now, here is the important part: when the cocks break, catch them immediately. Then without rest, set them down 5 feet apart, let them break and catch them. This time set them down 8 feet apart, let them break and catch them. Set them down again 8 feet apart and this time let them mix it up good. The purpose of this type of sparring is simple: the cocks will begin to score more quickly and break higher. Also, you are not giving them enough time to get tired and start ducking. If you let cocks spar until they are very tired, they will learn to duck really quickly, and this habit must be avoided.
Work
To attain maximum condition, a cock must be worked, and worked hard. Not all this work should be forced work, or hand-work-most of it should, in fact, be natural work, the kind a cock will do in a good fly pen with litter. He will scratch and fly up and down many times a day, complementing the handwork you give him. I feel that it is impossible to get a cock "muscle-bound" as some keeps would allow you to believe. It is quite possible to make a cock sore and stiff by overwork. That is why this method allows a cock to "rest up" from his conditioning program two full days before his fight. This "rest" period serves several purposes. First, if the cock has sore or stiff muscles, this time allows those muscles to regain their original elasticity, yet retain the strength that has been developed. Secondly, blood sugar begins to rise with the decrease in work, beginning the pointing process. Thirdly, it allows for the glycogen content in the muscles to increase.
Some cocks will not be able to take the work of this conditioning program. That in itself should give you some idea as to whether your cocks are really quality fowl. It has been my experience that truly well bred cocks won't fold under the pressure of the work. Rather, they will rebound and thrive on such activity, eager to work.
While realizing that volumes could be written on this subject alone, I think that it is sufficiently important to touch on at least the major points. In fact, I believe that the majority of 3-1 and 4-1 derby scores that you see can be attributed to the lack of attention that most cockers pay to this chore. After all, your derby show is only as good as your worst cock. If you approach the selection of your derby show with the attitude that "Well, this cock isn't so good, but maybe I'll get lucky and meet another weak cock," then you might as well stay at home. Always select the best cocks you have to condition. Your first step in selecting is to examine the overall health of the cock. Eyes should be bright, feathers slick and oily, and he should just give off an impression of active vitality. Examine feet and legs for sores or bumbles, the breastbone for sores, and the mouth and head for blisters. Check to make sure the cock is lice-free. He should, in your judgment, be within two ounces of fighting weight. It would be difficult to take more than that off in two weeks without weakening the cock, or put more than two ounces on with a rigorous training schedule. Check for broken wing or tail feathers. Do not fight cocks with badly broken feathers. For a bent feather, where the shaft is bent but not broken, carefully straighten the shaft, and apply a small piece of tape to the feather. Usually, this will prevent further damage, at least temporarily.
If, in your opinion, the cock is in good health and near his actual fighting weight, then set him aside as a definite possibility. After you have narrowed down your selections to a workable number, weigh them, match according to weights, and spar. This is where the real selection process takes place. The good selector will be able to separate the duds from the aces, or at least the good cocks from the poor ones.
If possible, have two other people actually pit the cocks, so you can be free to observe. Watch how the cocks move, where they are aiming their licks, how accurate they are. Are they well balanced, do they land-.in position to hit again, do they have to have a bill-hold to hit, do they duck, are their licks delivered with snap? During the rest periods, how hard are they breathing? Is either rattling? The answers to these questions should determine your choices.
How many cocks to actually put up is a decision you must make, although this may be determined by the number of your available cocks. I would personally hesitate to enter a conditioning program without at least two cocks more than were needed. For example, for a 5-cock derby, I would put up seven or eight. If you put in two hard weeks of work on a show of cocks, it is heartbreaking to have one of your cocks come down with a cold the day before the derby and have to miss it. Remember Murphy's Law: if anything can go wrong, it will, and at the worst possible moment! So, be prepared. I can't tell you how many times this has happened to me. About three years ago I had up six stags for a 5 stag derby. The morning before the derby I went to load my stags, and lo and behold, one stag was beat up, slip-bill and bloody, and one other was missing! After much head scratching, I finally-figured it out. What happened was this: the evening before the derby, one stag had gotten out of his holding stall probably I hadn't latched it securely and immediately began to fight with the closest stag through the door. When darkness fell, the stag that was loose had stopped fighting and wandered outside (the door of the cockhouse was open for ventilation), into the woods-where he either died or was eaten by varmints. To make a long story short, determined to fight in the derby, I picked a stag off a string walk, loaded up and left. Know what happened? You guessed it. I won four and lost one the substitute! I still tied for the derby, but that one fight cost me about $3,000 in prize money. So don't let it happen to you put up enough cocks to make up for these emergencies.
Drugs and Supplements
Most knowledgeable cockers will admit that there are many drugs and additives that can increase the performance level of your fowl IF, and this is the big if you know how to select the correct drug, administer the proper dosage, and give it at the proper time. A "drug", whether you realize it or not, can be simply defined as any substance that can alter any one of the thousands of chemical actions that take place in the body. Alcohol is a drug. So is aspirin. Since the use of drugs during the conditioning process requires so much knowledge and experience in dosage, timing and the effects of the drugs themselves I can only recommend the use of two drugs for the average cocker. These two drugs are testosterone (male hormone) and vitamin B-12. All the successful cockers I know use one or both of these, whether they will admit it or not.
Testosterone, used in moderate and sensible doses, will help activate the pointing process by stimulating certain functions of the body that relate to physical and mental development of the male sex drive. Given in prolonged, massive doses (which you should never use), it will promote the growth process, causing accelerated muscle and bone growth.
Vitamin B-12 is a good, all-around the therapeutic drug. It promotes good appetite and soothes the nervous system. You cannot overdose on B-12 because it is "water-soluble", meaning the body passes off what it cannot use. In fact, some people swear by B-12 as a sure cure for a hangover! B-12 is especially helpful in traveling cocks because it seems to calm them without any tranquilizing effect.
The use of these two drugs with this conditioning method is completely optional. If you are unsure about administering them, then by all means, don't do it. Chances are, your cocks will do just as well without them, especially if you have doubts about their usage. As you become better acquainted with this method, you may want to try them later.
If you decide to use these drugs, you must follow my directions on dosage and timing. This is very important. I believe you should never give more than ¼ cc of any drug to a cock in keep. Remember, a cock has a small body mass compared to humans, so dosages must be adjusted accordingly. Always use a small gauge needle to avoid bruising or otherwise harming the tissue of the cock. Give all injections in the breast muscle, not near a bone. The ideal needle seems to be the disposable type used by diabetics. Most drug stores carry it and you won't need a prescription to buy it. Just ask for insulin syringes. Never use one needle for two different drugs, and dispose of the syringe after three or four injections.
One cautionary note on the use of testosterone (male hormone) prolonged or often use of this drug may cause the cock to be sterile later on. You see, by injecting the male hormone, the body's natural production of testosterone may be discouraged. In other words, if you use this drug on a cock in keep more than, say, four times a year, he won't lay eggs next year, but he might not be fertile when bred to hens. So, don't use it more than a couple of times a year on any cock you intend to breed. I don't usually breed battle cocks, so I don't have that problem.
Since I don't want to promote anyone's products I won't recommend any particular supplier of testosterone or B-12. You can obtain either drug from advertisers in the gamefowl magazines or from a vet.
As I said before, there are drugs that will produce incredibly sharp cocks, if given at the proper times with the proper dosage, but if you make one error in using drugs, you will have incredibly dull cocks at fight time. So, I think if you are a beginner and/or do not have a lot of experience and knowledge, you are better off without the drugs. Remember, consistency is the key to an 80% win average, and I guarantee consistency will be easier without the use of a number of drugs.
At a later date, if the demand for such a book is sufficient, I will offer a complete guide to the use of drugs on gamefowl.
Traveling Cocks Next Stop, Sunset?
There are as many theories about transporting cocks from Point A (your cockhouse) to Point B (the pit), as there are Polish jokes. Common sense and a basic knowledge of fowl should be your guides. Gamefowl sleep from dark until dawn, (The exception being, of course, when your mother-in-law visits. Then they crow all night.) So, when you travel from Point A to Point B you want your fowl to obtain the maximum rest; in other words, to sleep through the trip if possible. The logical method, then, is to travel your cocks at night, allowing just enough traveling time to arrive at the pit when your cocks would normally be waking up at dawn. If you live within a four to six hour drive of ...
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| Announcement: milmar conditioning |
| Posted: gamefowloftheworld @ Sat Nov 26, am1126 7: 04 am |
We have heard alot of conditioning methods and we learn somethings from those methods but we have our own method and experiences that we observed that give use good results.TAKE NOTE preparing your rooster is doesnt start on the 21,16,or 14 days conditioning but it starts from the day they hatch.But i will just share our feeds,work outs,medicines and handling into the pit.
1st select your rooster,its up to you how you select your battlefowl, like ours we like the wise and smart rooster that just wait for the opponent i mean their not like a bull that will attack the opponent after you release him,defensive and the "angat sarado type".
2nd deworm them,our method on deworming is dont feed them on the morning and after noon and then give him a deworming medicine(any deworming meds) and then put it on a keep stall so that he cannot scratch and eat something on the ground, after that in the morning flush them three thumb size bread that is soak in a skim milk.Just feed them on the afternoon starting the conditioning feeds.
3rd in the next morning check them for defects,infections like colds and lice.Washout them to eliminate the lice.
This is what composed our conditioning feeds:
conditioner concentrate,conditioning pellets for protein expander,carrots,onions,quacker oats,soaked over night jackie oats,egg white(boiled),honey,wheat germ,fresh steam liver,and tomato sauce and skim milk.
These are the medicines and vitamins
centrum silver one tablet 3 times a week,belamyl b12 injectible,testosterone,red cell,nux vomica, breco aminoplex and vitamin K.
centrum silver is 3 time a week
b12 and testosterone are every 4 days
red cell is included on the feed every morning except on the last 4 days before the fight
breco aminoplex and vitamin k is injected 4 days before the fight in the morning.
the nux vomica is given in the last four days in their feed in the morning just three drops
On the last four days dont give them vitamins and injectables except for the nux vomica and excluded the milk on the feed.Just feed them,give them water not too much,and then keep them.
The work outs are flying pen,running pen,scratch pen, sparring and table works
In the morning put them in the scratch pen from 6am upto 7am let them loose after the scratch pen put them in the cord and then feed them in 8am,after they eat just let them relax an hour and after that put them in the running pen in the afternoon put them in flying pen and let them sleep there.In the next day just some"kahig and sampi" after that put them in their cord to take rest and sleep.The next morning spar them in 5am and then rest for the whole day.Repeat the first workout and then in the 8pm walk them in your ruweda or ring so that they are used to them night and lights and then spar them so they are used to fight in the night,even its a day fight still light them up in the noght you can observed them they are more alert in the fight day.
When you are in the pit just make them relax and calm,just a lil heating not too much.
This is our conditioning and preparation method..sorry I did not include some dosage of medications.
Omar and Milo Mirador
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| Announcement: ON GAMEFOWL BREEDING By M. L. Fernando |
| Posted: gamefowloftheworld @ Sat Nov 26, am1126 6: 52 am |
ON GAMEFOWL BREEDING
By M. L. Fernando
SOME WONDER HOW CERTAIN COCKER-breeders produce outstanding fighting cocks without any knowledge of gamefowl breeding basics. Others do well in game-fowl breeding loaded with all breeding methods found in the book. The former succeed due to their innate talent or "feel" of the gamefowls, while the latter reach breeding goals due to education. Those whom the author have seen attain breeding goals in so short a time, have that "feel" of the gamecock and read a lot of books and magazines pertaining to gamefowls. It is with this thought that the author decided to touch on this subject?
There are lots of breeding theories found in the book, but the two most famous are inbreeding and cross-breeding. Let us first touch on inbreeding, Inbreeding is the mating of closely related fowls. If you want to know how to inbreed gamefowls, Iook at the percentage of inbreeding below.
1. Mating brother & sister- 25% (intensive inbreeding). 2. Mating half-brother & half-sister- 12.5% (moderate inbreeding). 3. Mating uncle & niece; aunt & nephew -12.5% (moderate inbreeding). 4. Mating grandparent & grandchild 12.5% (moderate inbreeding). 5. Mating first cousins - 6.3% (mild inbreeding).
Select the percentage of inbreeding you think will be applicable to your gamefowls. Remember that the purpose of inbreeding is to fix like genes. The more you inbreed; the more like genes are fixed. These will be further boosted by inbreeding birds having the same phenotype characters tied to some genotypes.
When you inbreed fowls, watch out for atavism. Atavism is the recurrence in a descendant of characters of a remote ancestor. It may result in deformed beaks, eyes with irregular pupils, breast defects, crooked toes and backs, etc. Atavism will also result in phenotype throwbacks - especially plummage phenotypes. Throwbacks are homozygous dominant.
A friend of mine once bred a pair of Ray Hoskins Grey. Out of this pair of Grey fowls - two of the progeny were Whites. This pair of White throwbacks begot outstanding cocks - all Whites. He also crossed the throwbacks on other Whites of different strain and still come up with winners. The cross of the White throwback with mongrel cocks also produced good pit fowls. When atavism results in color throwbacks, check if the color phenotype is tied with fighting prowess genotype. When bred, it will give positive results. Genetics is a very tricky business and does not always follow prescribed rules designated by us. Most breeders maintain highly inbred strain of fowls as seed fowls. These breeders do not fight broodfowls; they only fight battlefowls.
Hugh Norman, the "Master Breeder", made famous the Rebel Strain of game-fowls. He was one of those breeders who maintain inbred strains and cross them for hybrid vigor (heterosis). To him broodfowls and battlefowls are not the same. He does not fight broodfowls nor breed battlefowls. In this method, the more inbred your seed fowls are, the greater will be the "nick" or hybrid vigor when they are crossed.
In the Norman Method, we line breed our fowls before crossing. Line-breeding is inbreeding to an individual, each generation we "double up" the genes of the progeny? By line-breeding we try to produce individual(s) genetically as close as the original. Each mating should be carefully evaluated up to the last mating. The progeny from the last mating are kept as replacement broodfowls or be used as seed fowls for crossing.
Let us illustrate how line-breeding is done.
This mating produced two stags of different phenotypes? STAG (9) is hetero-genous Dominant (½) Yellow-leg while STAG (10) has a double dose of (ya) allelle, making it homozygous Recessive (pure) Willow-legs. This proves once again that when we breed back, we "double up" like genes in the progeny making them as close as the original.
If you are a backyard breeder, chances are you do not have enough space to accommodate these fowls for line-breeding. I suggest you line-breed only to one individual. Try to find out which of the pair is more prepotent, and breed back to that individual. Then you can close the line-bred progeny with otherfowls. Hete-rosis or hybrid vigor will not be as strong as that of both line-bred crosses, but will be sufficient to produce good pit fowls. Of course, this will depend upon the performance and prepotency of your original pair of brood fowls and your evaluation and selection of each mating prior to the cross.
Now, let us touch on cross-breeding. Crossbreeding is the mating of gamefowls not related by blood to each other? This is usually done to combine the good quail-ties of the broodfowls. There are three methods of breeding gamefowls by crossbreeding. They are discussed below.
1. STRAIGHT-CROSS--In this method, two strains are mated. One good example is the power-speed blend of Ruble Hatch and Black Traveler. Here, the male offspring will take after the hens. 2. THREE WAY-CROSS--If you have a family of Kelso that cuts better in open sparring and needs more wallop, get an even cross like a Hatch-Claret and breed it over the Kelso hens. The progeny out of this mating will retain the desired characteristics of the Kelso, cutting ability of the Claret, and the power of the Hatch.
3. FOUR WAY CROSS--This is the mating of two straight crosses like the mating of Hatch-Claret to a Kelso-Roundhead cross.
In cross-breeding, remember the following adage. "Cross breeds or hybrids almost invariably pass along their worst characteristics. The good qualities often are the result of the cross and cannot be passed along." This was taken from the book "Modern Breeding of Game Fowl" by Mr. Frank "Narragansett" Shy.
Another method of breeding worth mentioning in this piece is the "Narragansett Method" made popular by Frank Shy, another "Master Breeder" famous for the strain of gamefowls called the Narragansetts. This method advocates the transmission of the blood of a prepotent individual to the progeny in "small doses" by repeated injections of the blood from several mates rather than intensive inbreeding.
Let us elucidate it further. Suppose you have an outstanding broodcock. Single mate him with several hens and as certain which ones throw the best progeny. Suppose you selected two hens that produce very good pit fowl and fight alike. The progeny of the two unrelated hens should be crossed. This will be half-brother and half-sister mating which is 12.5% inbreeding. If you want to infuse new blood, be sure the fowl is the same as your original trio in conformation and fighting style.
Let us illustrate the "Narragansett Method" below.
Dotted lines cock (stag) Solid lines hen (pullet)
From the illustration of the Narragansett Method, we mated COCK (A) to HEN (B) and HEN (C). The mating of HEN (B) and COCK (A) resulted in progeny (1) which are 1/2 blood of COCK (A). The pairing of HEN (C) and COCK (A) begot offspring (2) which are ½ blood of COCK (A). We then crossed progeny (1) and (2) to produce offspring (3) and (4)· These are half-brother and half-sister matings that produced progeny (3) and (4), which are still blood of the original COCK (A).
This is as far as we can go. We cannot breed progeny (3) and (4) to any of the original trio since it will be close cosanguinous matings· We have to procure another broodcock that resembles the original COCK (A) in conformation and fighting style· Get the best pul lets from progeny (3) and (4) and mate them with COCK (D).
These matings will result in progeny (5) and (6) that are 1/4 blood of the original COCK (A).
In order to establish the desirable characteristics of COCK (A), we shall mate the choice pullets of progeny (5) and (6) with COCK (A). These matings will produce offspring (7), ( , (9), and (10) that are 5/8 blood of the original COCK (A). We can still mate progeny that are 5/8 blood of the original COCK (A) with HEN (B) and HEN (C), but they are not within the scope of this article. Figure it out and make an illustration of these matings. We illustrated the point that in order to increase the desired characteristics of COCK (A), we injected his blood repeatedly in small doses.
Another breeding method worth mentioning is Out-Breeding. Out-Breeding is the mating of the same strain of fowls that belong to different breeders but kept almost pure. If you have a strain of Kelso and you do not kow-tow to inbreeding, you can procure a Kelso cock from another breeder and breed him over your Kelso hens. Progeny from these matings will still be pure Kelsos and you did not inbreed at all.
Some backyard breeders blend native Orientals with American gamefowls? If you are in this class of cocker-breeders, better learn the IVY Method of grading Orientals· Ivy favors the 1/4 Oriental either in a two or three-way cross. In this method, you only need a single Oriental cock to produce 1/2 grade hens. Remember that Oriental grade breeding is a trial and error method.
Let us explain how this is done. In the two-way cross, first you mate the native cock with, let us say, a Davis Mims. This mating will produce offspring with 1/2 native Oriental blood. We select the best 1/2 native Oriental hens and mate them again with a Davis Mims cock. This two-way cross will produce offspring that are 1/4 native Oriental grades.
If you want a three-way cross, you mate select 1/2 native Oriental hens (cross between a native cock with Davis Mims hen) with a Davis Mims-Hatch Gull cross· The progeny out of this mating will be ¼ Hatch Gull, ½ Davis Mims, and 1/4 Oriental (native cock). The author favors 1/8 Oriental grades though.
The key to success in the production of native Oriental grades is selection and brutal culling. Select flicking type native Oriental cocks that could cut and always top the opponent every fly. These ring generals dictate the game but have little power so infuse at least % power blood (HATCH). The native cock you should breed must exhibit nothing but gameness when fought at two years old. The author have witnessed many native Orientals run when fought in slashers? They do not last the full route. However, there are a few that last the whole ten minutes and can stand deep cutting when fought at two years of age and above. These native Oriental types are worth breeding? They need very little work when conditioned to fight and are very resistant to diseases.
The articles I write are primarily intended for beginners and backyard breeders? I hope I have helped you even in a small way. Keep your gamefowl magazines coming? More power to you all.
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| Announcement: The Scientific Breeding Gamefowl |
| Posted: gamefowloftheworld @ Thu Nov 10, am1110 6: 13 am |
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» CONSEJOS PARA EL "CUIDO" DE GALLOS
by gamefowloftheworld on Mon May 23, pm523 11: 03 pm
» LA HISTORIA DE LOS HATCH'S DE GILMORE
by gamefowloftheworld on Mon May 23, pm523 10: 58 pm
» "LA FAMILIA KELSO OUT AND OUT "
by gamefowloftheworld on Mon May 23, pm523 10: 55 pm
» LA HISTORIA DE LOS SWEATERS - Por Carol Nesmith
by gamefowloftheworld on Mon May 23, pm523 10: 46 pm
» MAINTAINING A STRAIN by Carol Nesmith
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue May 10, am510 10: 58 am
» Cómo hice mi Familia y como los mantuve- Por Ray Boles
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun May 08, pm508 8: 42 pm
» s.r garcia de la flor
by gerpatino on Thu May 05, pm505 12: 26 pm
» anemia inapetencia
by gusiberd on Wed May 04, pm504 8: 35 pm
» Grit & Steel Interview : Duke Hulsey
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed May 04, pm504 7: 33 pm
» Aseel Standard
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed May 04, pm504 7: 28 pm
» Printable Breeding Record
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed May 04, pm504 7: 20 pm
» BREEDING BETTER ASEEL
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed May 04, pm504 7: 18 pm
» BREEDING A RUNNER
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed May 04, pm504 7: 13 pm
» Dosage Chart
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed May 04, pm504 7: 11 pm
» Breeding Software
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed May 04, pm504 7: 08 pm
» Tips & Advice from Big Jason on Gamerooster
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed May 04, pm504 7: 05 pm
» Vitamin Deficiency
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed May 04, pm504 7: 01 pm
» OLD TIME REMEDIES FOR COMMON POULTRY DISEASES
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed May 04, pm504 6: 58 pm
» How I Made My Family And Maintain Them by Ray Boles
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed May 04, pm504 6: 54 pm
» Poultry and Gamefowl General Care
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed May 04, pm504 6: 52 pm
» Gamefowl Genetics
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed May 04, pm504 6: 47 pm
» Colour of Game Cocks and Showing by Herbert Atkinson
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed May 04, pm504 6: 44 pm
» POULTRY BREEDING MANAGEMENT SOFTWARE!
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed May 04, pm504 6: 41 pm
» The Chicken Fighters
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed May 04, pm504 6: 34 pm
» Condition
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun May 01, pm501 3: 55 pm
» Formacion de Razas Compuestas Derivadas de 4 razas Puras
by chufas on Thu Apr 28, pm428 3: 04 pm
» Internacional de Cali 2011
by gerpatino on Fri Apr 22, am422 10: 13 am
» El gallo Padrillo o Padrote o solo para Cria.
by gerpatino on Thu Apr 21, pm421 6: 58 pm
» Análisis en la Antesala
by vivianmarch on Mon Apr 18, am418 11: 35 am
» Howard Belk Interview 2010/ Wing Band Mr. Belk
by gamefowloftheworld on Thu Apr 14, pm414 2: 39 pm
» Horta Interview
by gamefowloftheworld on Thu Apr 14, pm414 2: 36 pm
» Tom Hargus
by gamefowloftheworld on Thu Apr 14, pm414 2: 32 pm
» Bobby Boles Footage 1990 Part 1
by gamefowloftheworld on Thu Apr 14, pm414 2: 23 pm
» Raza Compuesta
by chufas on Thu Apr 07, am407 10: 24 am
» Asil
by gamefowloftheworld on Mon Apr 04, pm404 8: 52 pm
» Articles on the Malay
by gamefowloftheworld on Mon Apr 04, pm404 8: 49 pm
» MIS ASILES
by Holger Perez on Sun Apr 03, am403 4: 31 am
» sharp natural spur fight
by gamefowloftheworld on Sat Mar 26, am326 10: 51 am
» INTERNACIONAL DE CALI
by gerpatino on Mon Mar 14, pm314 12: 27 pm
» CRUZANDO EL ASIL PARA JUGAR
by Enrique Espichan on Tue Mar 01, pm301 11: 33 pm
» HOW TO SELECT THE BEST COCK
by gamefowloftheworld on Mon Feb 14, pm214 2: 38 pm
» THE BEST SWEATER
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Feb 13, pm213 7: 26 pm
» Best example: Establishing Your Own Strain
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Jan 23, am123 11: 56 am
» flock mating
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Jan 23, am123 11: 29 am
» Rolling Matings
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Jan 23, am123 11: 20 am
» game Chickens and how to breed them By Tan Barker
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Jan 23, am123 11: 15 am
» Crooked Toes
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed Jan 19, pm119 8: 07 pm
» Must read books for breeding fowl.
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed Jan 19, pm119 7: 59 pm
» Malay Game
by gamefowloftheworld on Mon Jan 17, am117 11: 52 am
» Water Metabolism of the Domestic Fowl From Hatching to Ma...
by gamefowloftheworld on Mon Jan 17, am117 11: 37 am
» Tatoo
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Dec 19, pm1219 10: 06 pm
» Broody
by gamefowloftheworld on Sat Dec 18, pm1218 8: 49 pm
» Historia de los metodos de cría-Consanguinidad y selección
by Enrique Espichan on Thu Dec 16, pm1216 10: 15 pm
» KEARNY WHITEHACKLE
by gamefowloftheworld on Mon Dec 13, pm1213 9: 11 pm
» boxing gloves in tough plastic and not in rubber
by gamefowloftheworld on Thu Dec 02, pm1202 7: 45 pm
» Gray Jungle Fowl Guideline
by gamefowloftheworld on Thu Dec 02, pm1202 7: 29 pm
» Black Butcher
by gamefowloftheworld on Mon Nov 29, pm1129 7: 03 pm
» COMITE ECUADOR
by Holger Perez on Mon Nov 29, am1129 11: 30 am
» Eye Color
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Nov 21, am1121 12: 05 am
» Artificial Insemination for Chickens
by gamefowloftheworld on Sat Nov 20, pm1120 11: 54 pm
» Breeders
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue Nov 16, pm1116 6: 30 pm
» Testing for Homozygosity
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue Nov 16, pm1116 2: 01 pm
» Line Breeding
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue Nov 16, am1116 6: 53 am
» How To Save Money On Poultry Feed
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue Nov 16, am1116 6: 41 am
» Trace mineral balance in poultry
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue Nov 16, am1116 6: 38 am
» Los métodos de cría
by gamefowloftheworld on Thu Nov 11, pm1111 4: 52 pm
» A que animales hacer consanguinidad
by gamefowloftheworld on Thu Nov 11, pm1111 4: 48 pm
» Una idea sobre cruces
by gamefowloftheworld on Thu Nov 11, pm1111 4: 43 pm
» Heterocigosis de Diferentes Tipos De Apareamientos
by gamefowloftheworld on Mon Nov 08, pm1108 6: 16 pm
» The Ten Commandments of every Pedigree
by gamefowloftheworld on Fri Nov 05, pm1105 4: 18 pm
» Transmision de caracteres
by gamefowloftheworld on Thu Nov 04, pm1104 8: 04 pm
» Interview
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue Nov 02, am1102 10: 08 am
» shank color
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue Nov 02, am1102 9: 45 am
» Daniel Juan Roman -Criador Exitoso
by gamefowloftheworld on Sat Oct 30, pm1030 7: 24 pm
» breeding chart-Tweeds poultry keeping in India.
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed Oct 27, pm1027 5: 58 pm
» Marks Mug
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Oct 24, am1024 12: 14 am
» A Few Opinions From The Cheap Seats
by gamefowloftheworld on Sat Oct 23, pm1023 11: 11 pm
» Dr.Gabriel Barrios -1er.Vicepresidente de la SMPGC
by JRVASIL on Wed Oct 20, pm1020 4: 52 pm
» The Origin Of The Clarets
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue Oct 19, pm1019 7: 22 pm
» History They Don't Teach You
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue Oct 19, pm1019 7: 10 pm
» SALUDOS ALGUNAS DE MIS AVES . MEXICO
by Holger Perez on Fri Oct 15, pm1015 2: 38 pm
» "SOCIEDAD MUNDIAL PROTECTORA DEL GALLO DE COMBATE
by chufas on Thu Oct 14, am1014 9: 25 am
» apoya al gallo de pelea en mexico
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed Oct 13, pm1013 9: 15 pm
» urgente galleros‏
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed Oct 13, pm1013 9: 11 pm
» Como sacar màs pollos machos que Hembras ??????????????????
by mmora on Wed Oct 13, pm1013 12: 35 pm
» Lacy Roundhead
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue Oct 05, pm1005 8: 30 pm
» Sweater
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue Oct 05, pm1005 8: 19 pm
» Radio
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue Oct 05, pm1005 8: 18 pm
» Morgan Whitehackle
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue Oct 05, pm1005 8: 14 pm
» Madigin Claret
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue Oct 05, pm1005 8: 11 pm
» Leiper
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue Oct 05, pm1005 8: 09 pm
» Kelso Hen
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue Oct 05, pm1005 8: 05 pm
» Blueface Hen
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue Oct 05, pm1005 8: 03 pm
» Blueface
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue Oct 05, pm1005 8: 01 pm
» The All-4 Deans Fowl
by gamefowloftheworld on Fri Oct 01, pm1001 9: 00 pm
» THE MAKING OF THE CLARET
by gamefowloftheworld on Fri Oct 01, pm1001 8: 53 pm
» History of the famous Mclean Hatch-as told by Harry Parr
by gamefowloftheworld on Fri Oct 01, pm1001 8: 49 pm
» proper packaging of hatching eggs
by gamefowloftheworld on Fri Oct 01, pm1001 8: 42 pm
» COMITE ESPAÑA
by cezhar on Fri Oct 01, pm1001 3: 10 pm
» Calzando Espuelas plasticas segunda parte
by Venancio Gomez on Thu Sep 30, pm930 6: 42 pm
» PRIMER TORNEO BOGOTA COLOMBIA
by alayonjohn on Thu Sep 23, pm923 2: 29 pm
» Mel Sims
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed Sep 22, pm922 6: 34 pm
» Whitehackles
by gamefowloftheworld on Mon Sep 20, pm920 4: 18 pm
» Warhorses
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Sep 19, pm919 7: 05 pm
» Marsh Butchers
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Sep 19, pm919 7: 04 pm
» Sid Taylors
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Sep 19, pm919 7: 03 pm
» Miner Blues
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Sep 19, pm919 6: 59 pm
» Alabama Roundheads
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Sep 19, pm919 6: 58 pm
» RBHatch Fowl
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Sep 19, pm919 6: 57 pm
» Clarets
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Sep 19, pm919 6: 56 pm
» Japanese Native Chickens
by gamefowloftheworld on Thu Sep 16, pm916 8: 11 pm
» Easiest form of Linebreeding
by gamefowloftheworld on Thu Sep 16, pm916 7: 42 pm
» Line Breeding
by gamefowloftheworld on Thu Sep 16, pm916 7: 27 pm
» Gamecock September 2010
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue Sep 14, am914 7: 28 am
» GALLINO TUZO COLOMBIANO GALPÓN SOSA
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Sep 12, pm912 3: 14 pm
» BREEDER OF CHICKS
by gamefowloftheworld on Sat Sep 11, pm911 6: 42 pm
» About Black Japs
by gamefowloftheworld on Sat Sep 11, am911 9: 46 am
» FIGHT OF 25,000 DOLLARS
by gamefowloftheworld on Sat Sep 11, am911 8: 23 am
» Some Old, Old Pictures
by gamefowloftheworld on Sat Sep 11, am911 8: 14 am
» William Vizzard's Story on Successfully Breeding & Fight
by gamefowloftheworld on Fri Sep 10, pm910 11: 20 pm
» ORIENTALS -JIM VIZZARD-Cocker's Gazette, issue no. 44, 1988
by gamefowloftheworld on Fri Sep 10, pm910 10: 53 pm
» Cockfight
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue Sep 07, pm907 7: 19 pm
» KEARNY WHITEHACKLE
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Sep 05, pm905 3: 38 pm
» H.H. MOORE CLARET
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Sep 05, pm905 3: 37 pm
» SWEATER
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Sep 05, pm905 3: 36 pm
» CARL DAVIS ROUNDHEAD
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Sep 05, pm905 3: 35 pm
» BLUEFACE HATCH
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Sep 05, pm905 3: 34 pm
» Cardinal Kelso
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Sep 05, pm905 3: 33 pm
» Dr. Teddy Tanchanco (feed regimen 21 days keep)
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Sep 05, pm905 12: 00 pm
» HATAW PINOY - Sonny Lagon
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Sep 05, am905 11: 39 am
» HATAW PINOY - Breeding Cages
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Sep 05, am905 11: 32 am
» HATAW PINOY - Dr. teddy Tanchanco (cyst removal)
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Sep 05, am905 11: 21 am
» HATAW PINOY - Dr. Teddy Tanchanco (coryza)
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Sep 05, am905 11: 18 am
» Gaden Eggs Incubator
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Sep 05, am905 11: 03 am
» BLOODLINES: BUTCHER
by gamefowloftheworld on Mon Aug 30, am830 10: 32 am
» BLOODLINES: HULSEYS
by gamefowloftheworld on Mon Aug 30, am830 10: 31 am
» BLOODLINES: SWEATERS
by gamefowloftheworld on Mon Aug 30, am830 10: 29 am
» THE SEARCH FOR NEW COCK VJ
by gamefowloftheworld on Mon Aug 30, am830 10: 26 am
» NENE ABELLO GAMEFARM
by gamefowloftheworld on Mon Aug 30, am830 10: 18 am
» Hands-On 001
by gamefowloftheworld on Mon Aug 30, am830 10: 15 am
» What Do Chickens Eat?
by gamefowloftheworld on Sat Aug 28, pm828 1: 31 pm
» Concepts to Better Breeding
by gamefowloftheworld on Sat Aug 28, pm828 1: 28 pm
» Procedimiento para la incubación de huevos
by gamefowloftheworld on Fri Aug 27, pm827 6: 33 pm
» Observaciones
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed Aug 25, pm825 7: 35 pm
» The Spanish Game Fowl. C.A. Finsterbusch 1928
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed Aug 25, pm825 6: 58 pm
» History of the Morgan Whitehackles
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue Aug 24, pm824 5: 57 pm
» Karachi Hatch
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue Aug 24, pm824 1: 45 pm
» JOHN KELSO
by gamefowloftheworld on Fri Aug 20, pm820 9: 25 pm
» Gamecock 2010
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed Aug 18, pm818 7: 42 pm
» basic bloodlines
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue Aug 10, pm810 5: 16 pm
» Coefficient of Inbreeding
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Aug 01, pm801 2: 14 pm
» Black Fowl
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Aug 01, pm801 1: 38 pm
» BLACK McRae ...who has the best ?
by gamefowloftheworld on Sat Jul 31, pm731 8: 45 pm
» Mr. Boy Primalion
by gamefowloftheworld on Sat Jul 31, pm731 5: 45 pm
» Grit & Steel Interview (Duke Hulsey)
by gamefowloftheworld on Mon Jul 12, pm712 8: 26 pm
» ROLIGON MEGA COCKPIT
by gamefowloftheworld on Mon Jul 12, pm712 8: 16 pm
» COMITÉS DEL MUNDO AFILIADOS A LA SMPGC
by chufas on Wed Jun 16, am616 7: 05 am
» inbreeding/linebreeding combined with culling
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue Jun 15, pm615 3: 53 pm
» Chicken math is a myth. An outdated myth.
by gamefowloftheworld on Tue Jun 15, pm615 3: 47 pm
» Nutrition and Disease By Floyd Gurley
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Jun 13, pm613 7: 23 pm
» Anatomy of a Gamecock By: Floyd Gurley
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Jun 13, pm613 7: 21 pm
» Assistance for the Breeder by Jhon Roman
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Jun 13, pm613 7: 19 pm
» Further Reading by Floyd Gurley's
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Jun 13, pm613 7: 08 pm
» EJEMPLARES DE PUERTO RICO PARA VENTA EN PERU .
by gamefowloftheworld on Sun Jun 13, pm613 6: 55 pm
» Cambio de Presidencia SMPGC
by gamefowloftheworld on Thu Jun 10, pm610 2: 17 pm
» CARE OF HATCHING EGGS- by Floyd Gurley
by gamefowloftheworld on Wed Jun 02, pm602 3: 51 pm
» Coccidiosis - by Floyd Gurley
by gamefowloftheworld on Mon May 31, pm531 8: 33 pm
» THE BREEDING PEN-By Floyd Gurley
by gamefowloftheworld on Mon May 31, pm531 8: 31 pm
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